Determine the best way to go in counter tops, cabinetry, flooring and more

In many respects, the kitchen is the most important room in the home. On a daily basis, it's where family and friends congregate. And when it's time to sell the house, the appeal of the kitchen plays
a large part in determining how easily the home sells (and for what price).
The value of kitchens is also reflected in their hefty price tag: kitchens cost more per square foot than any other room in the home. That's why it's imperative to carefully consider the myriad
of practical choices that must be made before construction starts. To make this task less daunting, Her Home gathered the following information from a conversation with Joanne Kellar Bouknight,
author of The Kitchen Idea Book.
Appliances
Appliances play an obvious role in a kitchen's expense. Even in a modest kitchen, a standard refrigerator, stove and dishwasher represent a sizable investment. On the other end of the spectrum, the
tremendously popular commercial style, stainless steel appliances dramatically multiply costs. Double ovens, second dishwashers, wine refrigerators, commercial-grade refrigerator drawers and warming
drawers are also becoming common. Since many appliances are built-in, it's helpful to consider present and future needs before building.
Cabinets
After appliances, your cabinets will require one of the largest financial outlays. They also set the tone for the entire room. Mass-produced stock cabinets are the most economical option, but offer
the fewest choices in sizes, styles and finishes. Ready-to-assemble cabinet parts are also affordable and provide more flexibility. Semi-custom cabinetry will usually feature better construction and
nicer interiors.
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It comes in a wide range of styles, finishes, hardware, accessories and sizes and is usually about 25% less expensive than custom. Custom cabinetmakers offer the most flexibility,
but it's wise to get some recommendations before hiring local cabinetmakers, as quality can vary from shop to shop. The type of materials used is another cost factor. One of the least expensive alternatives
is cabinetry made of medium density fiberboard (which is then painted). However, it is helpful to note that painted cabinets show dings and dents more readily than stained cabinets and they are more
difficult to repair. Unless it is quartersawn, oak is one of the more moderate woods. Laminate, ash, pine, birch, maple, cherry and hickory will generally cost more. Raised panel doors, which are
more labor intensive, will cost more than simpler Shaker style or beadboard doors. |
Other cabinet options include:
* Inset doors and drawers that are flush with the frame or that overlap the frame. Those that overlap are usually less expensive because they do not need to be made as precisely.
* Melamine interiors vs. wood interiors. Higher-end cabinetry will usually have a wood interior. Melamine is an attractive, durable surface, but wood or wood veneer shelves are usually used in cabinets
with glass doors.
* Various sized top cabinets. Conventional cabinets are 30 inches in height, but 36 and 42-inch are becoming more common, along with a combination of different heights for added interest. Top cabinets
may be painted or stained a different color from base cabinets and may incorporate glass doors.
* Decorative details such as crown molding and furniture legs.
* Special organizational elements such as: silverware dividers, spice drawers, roll-out shelves, special knife drawers, pull-out serving drawers, slide-out cutting boards, rotary shelves and pull-out
waste bins. To save on initial costs, some of these items can be added later with plastic inserts from home stores.
Countertops
Countertops are another major expense, with granite and marble generally the most costly. However, individual types, thicknesses and finishes can vary the price greatly. Both granite and marble are
durable, heat-proof, water-resistant and easily cleaned. Oil, alcohol and acidic foods can stain marble; alcohol can stain granite. Dark granite is generally the hardest. All stone should be sealed
(typically once a year). Less expensive stone alternatives are soap stone, slate, stone tile and composite stone (which is 90% stone pieces mixed with concrete).
Solid surface counters, which often cost the same as lower priced granite, have claimed about one-third of the residential countertop market. Their advantages include: they never need to be sealed,
they are easy to care for, the rare scratch or stain can be sanded out and the sink and backsplash can be formed integrally to the counter.
Three newer materials currently quite popular for countertops are concrete, wood and stainless steel. Depending on finishes and whether they are precast or cast in place, concrete counters can be
relatively inexpensive to costly. Concrete does stain so it requires sealing; it will crack if joints are not included in long expanses. Wood and stainless steel are often comparably priced. Wood provides
a soft look and is less likely to break dropped glassware than many of the previously mentioned surfaces. Stainless steel is tough and very hygienic (it can even be cleaned with bleach). For the ultimate
in waterproofing, the backsplash, sink and counter can all be welded together.
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Laminate continues to dominate the kitchen counter market. It not only provides extremely low upkeep, is it inexpensive and comes in hundreds of patterns and colors. It can be dressed up with a factory-formed
backsplash, a beveled edge or a wood-trimmed edge. Ceramic tile can also be very affordable. And it is extremely durable, heat-resistant, long-lasting and comes in an incredible variety of shapes,
sizes and colors. Epoxy grout is a good choice for countertops because it is harder and more resistant to staining and mildew.
Flooring
Flooring is the final major cost element. It must be chosen early because various floors require different subfloors and can affect the height of cabinets.
Vinyl flooring is the most common kitchen material because it is relatively inexpensive, easy to install and water-resistant. Other resilient floors that are more expensive but growing in popularity
because of improvements in technology, are cork and linoleum. Today's cork can be impregnated with polyurethane for more durability and moisture resistance.
Linoleum is an environmentally friendly product made of natural ingredients, which do not outgas (although there may be a faint linseed oil smell). Because it is permeated with color, scratches will
not show as they do on vinyl. Another advantage of today's linoleums is that they are prefinished and do not need to be waxed as their predecessors did.
Wood is an ever-popular choice. It comes in prefinished, raw wood and engineered wood planks. Prefinished planks usually cost more than raw wood, but they are less expensive to install and are ready
for use instantly.
Engineered wood planks (a laminated wood surface on top of plywood) are the least expensive, but they can only be refinished a few times. Because the joints are sealed, wood finished in place is
the most moisture resistant. It is also quite time consuming (requiring three - six coats of sealer).
Oak is the most common and one of the less expensive wood floors. Other hard woods such as maple and ash are also frequently used, and environmentally friendly bamboo is also gaining acceptance.
Ceramic and stone tiles create the most durable floors. Ceramic tiles are now available with the look of stone-without the expense or the periodic sealing actual stone tiles require. The downside of
both stone and ceramic tile floors is that they can be hard on feet and brutal to dropped dishes. In the kitchen, it's wise to choose tiles that are not too slick.
Along with concrete countertops, concrete floors have become a hot new look. Prices vary depending on finishes. They must be sealed every one or two years, preferably with a penetrating sealer to
limit scratches. Because large pieces of concrete will crack, control joints must be incorporated during casting. It's also important to note that concrete takes 30 days to fully cure, so it must be
properly covered and kept clean during the remainder of construction to avoid imprinting. Both concrete and tile floors are ideal for kitchens with radiant heating.
Islands
Today's islands range from a simple butcher block to an elaborate centerpiece of the kitchen. Their functions are as varied as their costs: extra workspace for making pastries or baking cookies,
a place to line up a buffet, an informal eating area, cookware storage or a buffer between the kitchen and an open living area. They may host a sink, cooktop, refrigerator drawer or a dishwasher. (If
a sink or cooktop is included, it's generally preferable to place it closer to one end, retaining a larger area for a workspace). Part of the counter may be raised to provide privacy for a messy work
area or to better accommodate serving. Increasingly, islands are becoming the focal point of the kitchen. They may boast a completely different color of cabinet with furniture-like detailing and a
more expensive counter top than the rest of the room.
Lighting
Although lighting may not initially appear to be a major cost element in the kitchen, it can be. It can also dramatically affect the look, feel and function of the room. Three different types of lighting
are usually found in the kitchen. As a rule, task lighting should make up about 3/4 of your kitchen's light. It may take the form of puck lights (small halogen lights that look like hockey pucks), fluorescent
tubes or strip lights under the upper cabinet or focused can lights in the ceiling.

Accent lights might include wall sconces or strip lighting behind the molding on top cabinets, under shelves in cabinets with glass doors or within cabinet toe spaces. If the lights are wired separately,
they can create different scenes or provide mood lighting in the evening. They can also keep the kitchen from looking like a dark hole when viewed from an adjoining living or dining area. Distinctive
pendant lights, which offer the most variety in design and the widest range in cost, are often used to highlight an island or a dining area.
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General principles to remember when choosing lighting:
* A kitchen with darker surfaces (cabinets, floors, counters) will require more light.
* Having a dimmer switch on pendant lights will provide a wider range of moods.
* If using can lights in a ceiling, it's important to combine them with some fixtures that direct light upward to avoid a dark ceiling.
* Halogen bulbs can generate considerable heat in the room and may not be a good choice too near food storage.
* Fluorescent bulbs are more efficient, last longer and are now available with a warm white hue. |
Sinks, Faucets & Hardware
Although providing a smaller visual impact, sinks, faucets and hardware also play a vital role in a kitchen's appearance and function and can vary dramatically in cost. Because a sink is the most
used piece of equipment in the kitchen, thought should be given to the size, depth and type of sink you choose. Deeper sinks reduce splashing, but children and shorter adults may find them uncomfortable
to use. Side faucet sinks offer a bigger sink on one side to accommodate a roasting pan or cookie sheet.
There are also many choices in sink materials, including stainless steel, solid surface, enameled cast iron, ceramic and enameled steel (which is the least expensive). Remember, both ceramic and
enameled steel may chip.
Faucets and cabinet hardware can be simple and utilitarian or provide the crowning touch of distinction to a kitchen brimming with character. They also vary from modestly priced to very costly.
Faucets may be white enamel, chrome, brass, bronze, stainless steel or pewter, in Victorian to modern styles. Although it is currently vogue to mix and match pull and knob styles, hinges that are
not concealed should coordinate.
If budget concerns restrict your choices, remember it is wiser to choose a sink you can live with first (because it's difficult to replace) and upgrade your hardware or faucets later when you have
extra funds available.